Knit Fabric Basics
Knit fabrics stretch — that's their superpower and their challenge. Before you start:
•Stretch percentage: Check your pattern's required stretch. Hold a 10cm section and stretch it. If it reaches 13cm, that's 30% stretch.
•Recovery: After stretching, does it snap back? Good recovery = the garment keeps its shape.
•Types: Jersey (t-shirts), interlock (structured knits), rib knit (cuffs/bands), ponte (pants/blazers), sweater knits (loose, cozy).
Essential Tools for Knits
•Ballpoint/Jersey needle: The rounded tip slips between knit fibers instead of piercing them. Prevents runs.
•Walking foot: Feeds both fabric layers evenly. Prevents the top layer from stretching ahead.
•Stretch stitch or narrow zigzag: A straight stitch will pop when the fabric stretches. Use a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag (width 0.5, length 2.5).
•Polyester thread: Has slight give, unlike cotton thread which can snap.
💡 Tip: If you have a serger/overlocker, it's the ideal machine for knits — it trims, seams, and finishes edges in one pass with built-in stretch.
Cutting and Sewing Tips
1Let the fabric relax on the table for a few hours before cutting (especially if it was on a roll)
2Use pattern weights, not pins — pins distort knits
3Cut with a rotary cutter for cleaner edges
4Don't stretch the fabric while sewing — let the machine feed it naturally
5Use a longer stitch length (3.0mm) to allow for stretch
6Stabilize shoulder seams with clear elastic or stay tape to prevent stretching out
💡 Note: Hems on knit garments look best with a twin needle (creates parallel rows of stitching with stretch on the wrong side) or a coverstitch machine.