Making a Muslin Test Garment
Before cutting your good fabric, sew a test version (called a "muslin" or "toile") in cheap fabric:
1Use a similar weight fabric (old sheets work for wovens)
2Sew with a long stitch length (easy to rip out)
3Try it on and mark any problem areas with a pen
4Transfer corrections back to the pattern
💡 Tip: Even experienced sewists make muslins for important projects. It's not a beginner thing — it's a professional practice.
Full Bust Adjustment (FBA)
If your bust measurement is larger than the pattern's for your upper body size:
1Slash the pattern from the shoulder through the bust point and to the hem
2Slash horizontally from the bust point to the side seam
3Spread the pieces apart by the needed amount
4Fill in the gaps with paper
5Re-draw the dart to account for the added fullness
6True the side seam and cutting lines
💡 Note: An FBA adds length to the front. You may need to shorten the front hem to match the back.
Sway Back Adjustment
If fabric pools or wrinkles horizontally across your lower back:
1Measure how much excess fabric there is (usually 1-3cm)
2On the back pattern piece, draw a horizontal line at the waist
3Fold out the excess amount along this line
4Re-draw the center back and side seams smoothly
5This shortens the back waist length without affecting the front
Broad/Narrow Shoulder Adjustment
•Broad shoulders: Slash vertically from the shoulder midpoint to the hem. Spread apart by the needed amount.
•Narrow shoulders: Same slash, but overlap instead of spreading.
💡 Tip: If you're adjusting more than 2cm per side, also check the armhole — you may need to re-draw it to maintain the correct sleeve cap height.